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Subject: Mourning jewelry-
Bracelets, about 1850
Woven hair jewelry was made as sentimental jewelry from at least the 1830s until late in the century but is most popular from 1845-1860.These bracelets could easily date anywhere in that era.The hair used in the creation of these bracelets is very coarse and is likely animal hair.It is possible that these were made for use in mourning.The hair is woven in bow know fashion, suggesting interwined lives and love.The jet bead in the center of the medallion could well indicate mourning or half mourni…
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Brooch, about 1860
This interesting brooch combines styles popular in the 1850s and 1860s, namely the bow know form with the dead gold metal (bright yellow metal that is produced without a sheen) and Etruscan filigree (delicate dots of gold that imitates Etruscan filigree decoration) that were popular primarily from the 1830s on.Etruscan filigree, really granulated drops of gold, was revived by Giulio Castellani of Britain who learned of the work from a scholar studying the ancients.He popularized the Etruscan rev…
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Earrings, about 1860
Between 1840 and 1860 hair jewelry was at the peak of production continuing on with watch chains up until the end of the nineteenth century.Hair jewelry or sentimental jewelry was valued by people not only for the intricate detail of the weave, but also because it included hair of a loved one dead or alive.This particular piece is in fine condition; however, many pieces of hair jewelry, given its delicate nature, do not survive over the course of time.
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Cross Pendant, about 1860
Woven hair, or plaited hair, jewelry was quite popular in the mid nineteenth century.It was sentimental jewelry in that it was used to remember loved ones who moved away, to simply recall the loved ones even if near, or to memorialize those who had passed away.Some enjoyed hair jewelry because of the lacy nature of the material.Hair jewelry could be made at home, instructions were found in Godey's Lady's Book and other popular publications, or by jewelers.Hair jewelry fell from favor by the 1880…
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Daguerreotype Brooch, about 1850
This may have been used in mourning and may memorialize the gentleman depicted on the brooch.Earlier mourning brooches included watercolors of likenesses of the deceased but daguerreotypoes, our first real photographs, records the extraordinary image of the deceased.The bit of hair on the back of the brooch may be the hair of the gentleman depicted but this cannot be verified.The curator has seen few brooches set with photographs, either daguerreotypes orthe later tintypes; this is a rare surviv…
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Bracelet, about 1860
Snake motifs are popular with the Victorians and are often seen on bracelets.Like wreaths, the snake with tongue in its mouth is another symbol for eternity.Because this locket/clasp holds a fine plait of human hair it is plausible that this could also have been used to memorialize the deceased; however, it could also be a symbol of everlasting love and include a lock of the hair of the loved on.It is not clear if the stone is paste or garnet.
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Mourning Pendant, 1795
It is difficult to read the inscription on the monument but it appears to be Halston while some say it is Balstun.These mourning lockets and other mourning pieces are particularly popular from 1750-1820.These memorialized the deceased and generally included a lock of their hair. This piece also seems to include the hair of a living family member as well.Sometimes the hair of the dead was dissolved and used to help paint the memorial scene.This image includes weeping willow trees, which were ofte…
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Mourning Ring, 1716
It is unknown whether this was used in Britain or the Colonies.Mourning rings are difficult to find and this early piece makes this even more rare.If it was used in this country it was likely made elsewhere but imported to the New World.Lapis is a much prized stone because it is often associated with the Virgin Mary, as her robe was often cobalt or lapis blue.
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Mourning Ring, about 1790
There is no date on this piece, but the classical urn and the straight uncomplicated dress of the mourner make it appear to be late eighteenth century.This is a very simple, almost crudely rendered scene.
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Mourning Ring, 1788
Such mourning pieces are popular with the well to do in the eighteenth and early nineteenth century.Most often the scenes were painted on ivory but some card.These scenes are fairly standard; they include symbols associated with sorrow (willows) or flowers associated with remembrance (forget me nots) or everlasting life (yew).Some artists dissolved some of the hair of the deceased and used it in painting the memorial scene.
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Mourning Ring, 1807
This ring might be considered an interesting transitional mourning ring.Earlier mourning rings were generally set with sepia scenes under glass and set into the gold band.Later mourning and memorial rings, from the 1830s on, often included locks of hair and onyx, pearls or enamel; some were plaited entirely of human hair.This ring is plain and simple, not unlike other decorative accessories of this classical revival period, and does not include the earlier sepia scenes but is more akin to rings …