Brooch, about 1855

Sentimental brooch which incorporates a lock of hair of a loved one.The inclusion of black enamel around the hair indicates that the loved one was likely deceased."MBL" may be the initials of the deceased.Half mourning called for jewelry that was not flashy or showed too much shiny gold metal, so many pieces used in half mourning include dark stones or enamel.This was likely made simultaneously with the plaited hair jewelry popular in the 1850s and 1860s.

Necklace and Earrings, about 1840-1875

While amethyst is not considered a particularly rare or desirable stone today (it is a quartz and rather soft) it was much prized in the nineteenth century.Until the late nineteenth century, when Brazilian deposits of amethyst were found, amethysts were considered important stones in expensive jewelry.This is an interesting half set, as the necklace has the style and delicacy of the 1840s, but the earrings resemble those popular in the 1870s.Research has revealed that the business stamped on the…

Earrings, about 1870

This pair of earrings is primarily Egyptian in form and decoration. However, it does include some aspects of otherhistorical styles such as the pendant amphora.One might also offer that the knife edge work is also seen in some Greek and Roman revival jewelry.Egyptian motifs were particularly popular in Western jewelry in the later 1860s and 1870s, and these earrings are compatible with the aesthetic of that period.However, screw back earrings were not seen in this era.It seems plausible that the…

Pair of Bracelets, about 1885

These inexpensive bracelets were popular in the late 19th century. Sold in pairs, they were likely worn one on each wrist.The large decorative plaque is vaguely Etruscan revival. There are some other historical revival aspects to these bracelets as well, notably the knife edge work which was used in some Greek and Roman revival jewelry.The pearls appear to be genuine although the rest is plated.

Jewelry Suite of Brooch and Earrings, about 1860

This style can be referred to as bowknot jewelry, and was popular from 1850-1870.The three small jump rings at the bottom of each piece may have been used to suspend small ball drops.

Earrings, about 1860

Between 1840 and 1860 hair jewelry was at the peak of production continuing on with watch chains up until the end of the nineteenth century.Hair jewelry or sentimental jewelry was valued by people not only for the intricate detail of the weave, but also because it included hair of a loved one dead or alive.This particular piece is in fine condition; however, many pieces of hair jewelry, given its delicate nature, do not survive over the course of time.

Cuff Link, about 1900

Cross Pendant, about 1860

Woven hair, or plaited hair, jewelry was quite popular in the mid nineteenth century.It was sentimental jewelry in that it was used to remember loved ones who moved away, to simply recall the loved ones even if near, or to memorialize those who had passed away.Some enjoyed hair jewelry because of the lacy nature of the material.Hair jewelry could be made at home, instructions were found in Godey's Lady's Book and other popular publications, or by jewelers.Hair jewelry fell from favor by the 1880…

Daguerreotype Brooch, about 1850

This may have been used in mourning and may memorialize the gentleman depicted on the brooch.Earlier mourning brooches included watercolors of likenesses of the deceased but daguerreotypoes, our first real photographs, records the extraordinary image of the deceased.The bit of hair on the back of the brooch may be the hair of the gentleman depicted but this cannot be verified.The curator has seen few brooches set with photographs, either daguerreotypes orthe later tintypes; this is a rare surviv…

Watch Chain, about 1860

A fine hair watch chain, exquisitly made, for a gentleman.The different colors of hair used to compose the links suggest that several family members are commemorated with the chain, so may not be used in mourning.Such chains could be made at home with instructions or made by a jeweler.These sturdy links may have been made by a jeweler who wound or wove the hair around a wire or other sturdy material.

Cameo Bracelet, about 1860

Cameos were traditionally carved from stone as carvers carefully worked in layers of agate, cutting away lower layers of color and leaving, in relief, layers of white or ivory colored strata.It is difficult and expensive work.In the early nineteenth century Italian carvers began carving cameos from shell, working the strata to leave white layers in relief on the cameo.This shell cameo carving reduced the price of cameos somewhat. The fineness of some of the best shell cameo cutters rivals those …

Bracelet, about 1860

Lovely, detailed tesserae work, probably the finest in our collection.Granulation work here is associated with Etruscan filigree and is a revival of the fine filigree work found at ancient archaeological sites.These mosaic bracelets, brooches, cuff links, etc. were very popular souvenir jewels.This was surely purchased as a souvenir piece on the Grand Tour,which were extended European tours especially through France, Germany, Italy, and Switzerland; commonly taken at this time by youth of the ar…

Cameo Pin, about 1860

Cameos were generally cut from stone until the nineteenth century when shell cameos were found to be lovely and affordable.Many were cut en cameo with images of the ancients, although medieval images were also popular.This one is interesting in that it may allude to the rescue of a sailor, as the angel holds an anchor while pointing in a direction of a flailing man.Perhaps this commemorates a sea rescue.

Earrings, about 1870

These earrings are quite typical gold metal and black enamel earrings dating from about 1870.This gold metal and black enamel decoration is quite popular 1870-1890.However, the decoration on the plaques appears to be from the late 1860s or early 1870s and the length of the earrings indicates a date of the 1870.By the 1880s earrings had become shorter to prevent them from becoming entangled in lacy collars; these are too long to date from the 1880s.

Watch Fob, about 1890

Fobs are charms that dangle from the end of a gentleman's watch chain and are generally visible outside his waistcoat.Many are just decorative while others, such as this, are useful as seals, mechanical pencils, lockets, etc. The latin on this fob roughtly translates into fine follower or helpful worker, but its exact translation is unknown.It seems plausible that this was a gift to a worker or colleague for work well done.

Earrings, about 1880

The earrings are likely to be gold as it would be unwise to chase plated metal so deeply.These do appear to be chased.Chasing is the process which literally removes metal in order to create decoration as opposed to engraving in which metal is pushed aside as the engraving tool works on the surface.These are somewhat difficult to date and it is unclear if they are American; however, a date of circa 1880 places the pair with other engraved/chased examples popular at this time as seen in New York w…

Coral Earrings, about 1910

These are odd earrings- they are very poorly carved and are very low quality cameos.The setting into which they've been placed seems makeshift and perhaps even a repair or replacement.It seems plausible that these are early twentieth century souvenir pieces from Italy.

Mourning Ring, 1716

It is unknown whether this was used in Britain or the Colonies.Mourning rings are difficult to find and this early piece makes this even more rare.If it was used in this country it was likely made elsewhere but imported to the New World.Lapis is a much prized stone because it is often associated with the Virgin Mary, as her robe was often cobalt or lapis blue.

Mourning Ring, 1788

Such mourning pieces are popular with the well to do in the eighteenth and early nineteenth century.Most often the scenes were painted on ivory but some card.These scenes are fairly standard; they include symbols associated with sorrow (willows) or flowers associated with remembrance (forget me nots) or everlasting life (yew).Some artists dissolved some of the hair of the deceased and used it in painting the memorial scene.

Mourning Ring, about 1790

There is no date on this piece, but the classical urn and the straight uncomplicated dress of the mourner make it appear to be late eighteenth century.This is a very simple, almost crudely rendered scene.