Tortoise Shell and Pique Brooch, about 1865

Tortoise shell was a much used material in small decorative accessories for many years.It is quite malleable when heated, and carefully chosen, the stock can have interesting color and mottling.In addition, it is easily carved and fine patterns can be created from it.Pique work infuses gold into the soft tortoiseshell, very much like inlay.Pique pose lays strips of gold in the surface and pique point, which this piece includes, has fine rods of gold embedded in it.Fine pique work was created in …

Bracelets, about 1850

Woven hair jewelry was made as sentimental jewelry from at least the 1830s until late in the century but is most popular from 1845-1860.These bracelets could easily date anywhere in that era.The hair used in the creation of these bracelets is very coarse and is likely animal hair.It is possible that these were made for use in mourning.The hair is woven in bow know fashion, suggesting interwined lives and love.The jet bead in the center of the medallion could well indicate mourning or half mourni…

Brooch, about 1860

This interesting brooch combines styles popular in the 1850s and 1860s, namely the bow know form with the dead gold metal (bright yellow metal that is produced without a sheen) and Etruscan filigree (delicate dots of gold that imitates Etruscan filigree decoration) that were popular primarily from the 1830s on.Etruscan filigree, really granulated drops of gold, was revived by Giulio Castellani of Britain who learned of the work from a scholar studying the ancients.He popularized the Etruscan rev…

Earrings, about 1880

The earrings are likely to be gold as it would be unwise to chase plated metal so deeply.These do appear to be chased.Chasing is the process which literally removes metal in order to create decoration as opposed to engraving in which metal is pushed aside as the engraving tool works on the surface.These are somewhat difficult to date and it is unclear if they are American; however, a date of circa 1880 places the pair with other engraved/chased examples popular at this time as seen in New York w…

Coral Earrings, about 1910

These are odd earrings- they are very poorly carved and are very low quality cameos.The setting into which they've been placed seems makeshift and perhaps even a repair or replacement.It seems plausible that these are early twentieth century souvenir pieces from Italy.

Watch Fob, about 1890

Fobs are charms that dangle from the end of a gentleman's watch chain and are generally visible outside his waistcoat.Many are just decorative while others, such as this, are useful as seals, mechanical pencils, lockets, etc. The latin on this fob roughtly translates into fine follower or helpful worker, but its exact translation is unknown.It seems plausible that this was a gift to a worker or colleague for work well done.

Brooch, about 1855

Sentimental brooch which incorporates a lock of hair of a loved one.The inclusion of black enamel around the hair indicates that the loved one was likely deceased."MBL" may be the initials of the deceased.Half mourning called for jewelry that was not flashy or showed too much shiny gold metal, so many pieces used in half mourning include dark stones or enamel.This was likely made simultaneously with the plaited hair jewelry popular in the 1850s and 1860s.

Necklace and Earrings, about 1840-1875

While amethyst is not considered a particularly rare or desirable stone today (it is a quartz and rather soft) it was much prized in the nineteenth century.Until the late nineteenth century, when Brazilian deposits of amethyst were found, amethysts were considered important stones in expensive jewelry.This is an interesting half set, as the necklace has the style and delicacy of the 1840s, but the earrings resemble those popular in the 1870s.Research has revealed that the business stamped on the…

GarnetBar Pin, 1884

Throughout most of the nineteenth century garnets were a popular stone in jewelry.Particular cuts of garnets, such as cabochon or faceted, help to indicate the made date.Garnets with smooth surfaces or cabochon were popular in the early half of the nineteenth century, while faceted garnets were popular during the later half of the nineteenth century.Delicate lace pins such as this were popular beginning in the 1880's and maintained popularity through the early 20th century, as they could be worn…

Earrings, about 1870

This pair of earrings is primarily Egyptian in form and decoration. However, it does include some aspects of otherhistorical styles such as the pendant amphora.One might also offer that the knife edge work is also seen in some Greek and Roman revival jewelry.Egyptian motifs were particularly popular in Western jewelry in the later 1860s and 1870s, and these earrings are compatible with the aesthetic of that period.However, screw back earrings were not seen in this era.It seems plausible that the…

Pair of Bracelets, about 1885

These inexpensive bracelets were popular in the late 19th century. Sold in pairs, they were likely worn one on each wrist.The large decorative plaque is vaguely Etruscan revival. There are some other historical revival aspects to these bracelets as well, notably the knife edge work which was used in some Greek and Roman revival jewelry.The pearls appear to be genuine although the rest is plated.

Jewelry Suite of Brooch and Earrings, about 1860

This style can be referred to as bowknot jewelry, and was popular from 1850-1870.The three small jump rings at the bottom of each piece may have been used to suspend small ball drops.

Brooch and Earring Set, about 1870

Coral was a popular material in jewelry making for many years.This particular piece incorporates coral with fairly inexpensive gold plated silver.Bigger brooches and long earrings were popular in the second half of the 19th century, until they fell out of favor because they could easily rip the lace collars and bodices that became popular in the 1880's.

Earrings, about 1860

Between 1840 and 1860 hair jewelry was at the peak of production continuing on with watch chains up until the end of the nineteenth century.Hair jewelry or sentimental jewelry was valued by people not only for the intricate detail of the weave, but also because it included hair of a loved one dead or alive.This particular piece is in fine condition; however, many pieces of hair jewelry, given its delicate nature, do not survive over the course of time.

Cross Pendant, about 1860

Woven hair, or plaited hair, jewelry was quite popular in the mid nineteenth century.It was sentimental jewelry in that it was used to remember loved ones who moved away, to simply recall the loved ones even if near, or to memorialize those who had passed away.Some enjoyed hair jewelry because of the lacy nature of the material.Hair jewelry could be made at home, instructions were found in Godey's Lady's Book and other popular publications, or by jewelers.Hair jewelry fell from favor by the 1880…

Cuff Link, about 1900

Scottish Pebble Brooch, about 1860

Queen Victoria of Great Britain adored the Scottish countryside and all things Scottish; she dressed her sons in highland dress and vacationed at Balmoral, her castle in Scotland.Scottish pebble jewelry was made from native stones (supposedly) from Scotland such as agate, chalcedony, carnelian, and bloodstone. These opaque stones were often set into silver that was rendered in the shape of ancient Scottish jewelry forms.Some quartz stones are carved in the shape of thistles, also associated with…

Daguerreotype Brooch, about 1850

This may have been used in mourning and may memorialize the gentleman depicted on the brooch.Earlier mourning brooches included watercolors of likenesses of the deceased but daguerreotypoes, our first real photographs, records the extraordinary image of the deceased.The bit of hair on the back of the brooch may be the hair of the gentleman depicted but this cannot be verified.The curator has seen few brooches set with photographs, either daguerreotypes orthe later tintypes; this is a rare surviv…

Watch Chain, about 1860

A fine hair watch chain, exquisitly made, for a gentleman.The different colors of hair used to compose the links suggest that several family members are commemorated with the chain, so may not be used in mourning.Such chains could be made at home with instructions or made by a jeweler.These sturdy links may have been made by a jeweler who wound or wove the hair around a wire or other sturdy material.

Bracelet, about 1860

Snake motifs are popular with the Victorians and are often seen on bracelets.Like wreaths, the snake with tongue in its mouth is another symbol for eternity.Because this locket/clasp holds a fine plait of human hair it is plausible that this could also have been used to memorialize the deceased; however, it could also be a symbol of everlasting love and include a lock of the hair of the loved on.It is not clear if the stone is paste or garnet.